Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Fruit in Urban Gardens

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.

It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with round mauve berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above the city town centre.

"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several discreet urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and allotments across Bristol. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned Montmartre neighbourhood and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. They protect land from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.

Mystery Polish Grapes

Returning to the city, the grower is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he grew from a cutting left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you don't have to treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Across Bristol

The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking

A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can truly create quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts come off the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced culture."

Challenging Conditions and Creative Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at the local university cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Dennis Hickman
Dennis Hickman

A seasoned journalist with a focus on UK political analysis and investigative reporting.